[Author’s Note: This column was originally published in June of 2013, and over the past 11 years, a few things have changed at Western States 100. Ahead of the 2024 race edition, we’re publishing a new, updated Obsessive’s Description of the Western States 100 course.]
Through the years, I’ve coached dozens of runners of their quests to finish the Western States 100, volunteered on the race quite a few occasions, and have 10 finishes of my very own. That is all to say that I’m a kind of individuals who is aware of the Western States 100 course considerably obsessively. What follows is my course description, divided into 4 sections and following a Kerouac-esque stream of consciousness. Take pleasure in!
Olympic Valley to Robinson Flat
Leaving Olympic Valley, California, you’re going to get caught up within the second and run up the hearth highway rapidly for 1 / 4 mile or so. Shortly thereafter, actually a half mile into the race, you need to settle into a powerful powerhike.
On the climb as much as the Escarpment, there are a number of runnable sections, however they’re transient. Consider preserving a gradual mountaineering rhythm up the climb to the chairlift that’s on the base of the steep scramble up the precise Escarpment. When you’ve crested this, it’s a couple of three-minute powerhike to the highest of the Palisades Tahoe ski space and the race’s excessive level. Take pleasure in this part, and be sure you flip round to take a look at the view. I even did that in 2005 after I completed second.
After cresting the summit, get onto singletrack and for kind of the subsequent seven miles to Lyon Ridge. You roll alongside a ridgeline that requires you to run some and stroll some. My sturdy recommendation right here is to softly run the flats, aggressively run the downs, and hike the ups. One caveat to that is that when you get caught behind a conga line that’s going slower than you are feeling such as you’d wish to go, attempt to get round it. Additionally, preserve a detailed eye out for the course markings by way of this part, as there are locations when the path is braided, and you’ll go barely astray. Nothing main, however it may be annoying.
After the Lyon Ridge help station (mile 10.3), the terrain turns into extra predictable, and it’s about half run/half stroll to the Purple Star Ridge help station (mile 15.8).
From Purple Star, start a grinding two-mile climb that’s principally mountaineering. That is adopted by a pleasant, rolling singletrack part that steadily descends to the Duncan Canyon help station. This can be a good part to open the legs a bit, because it’s the primary of what’s going to be many lengthy, sustained downhills on the day.
Once you hit Duncan Canyon Assist, you’ll be at mile 24.4 and have a 2.5-mile descent to Duncan Creek. That is one other good descent the place it’s value stretching the legs a bit, and it’ll even be the primary place the place you’ll get a good suggestion of what sort of warmth the day has in retailer. Ever because the 2001 Star Hearth, this has been uncovered and sizzling.
After crossing Duncan Creek, which might be fairly deep and a few years has a rope to help you throughout it, start the lengthy, gradual four-mile climb as much as Robinson Flat. To be trustworthy, there’s not a lot runnable right here till the final mile or so, and also you’re higher off giving freely a while right here that you may make up later. I used to get handed on this climb and ultimately go the individuals again within the canyons later.
The final mile into the Robinson Flat help station (mile 30.3) is a bit flatter, and it’s enjoyable as a result of tons of individuals are on the market. Plus, you get to see your crew.
Robinson Flat to Foresthill
Leaving the Robinson Flat help station, the path climbs a couple of mile by way of good forest up the flank of Little Bald Mountain. On the high, you flip proper at a key — and normally well-marked — intersection the place you start the lengthy, regular descent to the Miller’s Defeat help station (mile 34.4). The path by way of here’s a mix of singletrack and previous fireplace highway. Since that is the primary part of the race that traverses the south aspect of a ridgeline, you’ll probably get a sign of the warmth on faucet for the day.
From the Miller’s Defeat help station, the path geese right into a extra forested singletrack path earlier than coming out onto a wider, dustier path main downhill into the Dusty Corners help station (mile 38). Dusty Corners is an effective place to gasoline up, and it’s value taking an additional minute right here to sponge off earlier than heading out onto the Pucker Level Path — particularly if it’s sizzling.
That is a fully stunning part with views to Screwauger Canyon to the suitable and lengthy sight traces all the way down to Deadwood Canyon, your subsequent goal. After a brief uphill, which comes after a pleasant, regular downhill, the path pops out onto a mud highway and descends one other half mile into the Final Probability help station (mile 43.3).
That is the jumping-off level for the traverse of Deadwood Canyon and time to evaluate your situation. You’ll want to high off your whole fluids, because the four-mile stretch from right here to Satan’s Thumb will probably take over an hour.
I divide the descent into Deadwood Canyon into two elements. First, the descent is gradual on a rutty, previous fireplace highway, passing previous mining tools and dropping to Pacific Slab Mine. Then, after a left-hand flip onto slim singletrack, the path drops precipitously over the subsequent mile to the swinging bridge on the backside of the canyon. The path is usually in nice form right here, and the descent is enjoyable. Nonetheless, take care to not overstride, as it’s nonetheless early, and also you wish to preserve your quads intact.
It’s on this part that you simply’ll see the results of the 2013 American Hearth, in addition to the exceptional path restoration efforts of dozens of volunteers within the years that adopted.
After bouncing throughout the swinging bridge (actually), there’s a quarter-mile flat half that ends at a spring coming off the canyon wall. This water is potable, and I at all times high off my bottles right here. Additionally, it’s value a bit of additional time to dunk within the spring, or at the very least soak your operating hat or shirt, as the recent, 1,800-foot climb to Satan’s Thumb comes subsequent.
This infamous climb is just below two miles and consists of 36 switchbacks up the canyon wall. Nearly all of it’s a powerhike, and I strongly counsel settling into mountaineering rhythm by way of right here and simply getting it executed. About midway up the climb, there’s a notably steep part. You may normally hear the help station from a couple of quarter mile away, and it’s a good incentive to maintain footslogging away. Be certain that to steal a take a look at the Satan’s Thumb rock outcropping itself.
The help station at Satan’s Thumb (mile 47.8) is without doubt one of the greatest on the course. Dennis Zilaff and his workforce have been operating this station for years, and so they have all the pieces it’s essential recuperate from the heinous climb you’ve simply accomplished. Take time right here to eat, drink, and recuperate earlier than descending into the subsequent canyon, El Dorado.
This descent is a little more gradual than the downhill into Deadwood and for much longer. In reality, at just below 5 miles, it’s one of many longest downhills on the course, and it’ll actually take a look at the quads. Once you go the Deadwood Cemetery, you’re a couple of third of the best way down the descent, and the path steepens during the last mile to the river.
That is the world the place you’ll start to expertise the results of the area’s most up-to-date wildfire, the 2022 Mosquito Hearth. This hearth burned by way of roughly 20 miles of the Western States Path, in addition to by way of the village of Michigan Bluff and as much as the sting of the city of Foresthill. The Mosquito Hearth left a mark on the world, and the race course, that can final for many years to return.
You may normally hear the speeding water of the creek a couple of half mile earlier than the underside and really feel the canyon’s warmth. El Dorado Creek help station (mile 52.9) is simply after you cross the bridge on the backside of the canyon. That is normally the most popular level on the course, and so they usually have a thermometer out so you may see for your self! Cool off right here and high off your bottles, however don’t stay lengthy.
This climb as much as the previous mining city of Michigan Bluff begins out steep however steadily ranges out towards the highest. I counsel powerhiking a lot of the first half of the climb after which roll into a number of jogging elements as you close to the highest. The Mosquito Hearth has rendered a lot of this climb shadeless and uncovered, so care for your self right here.
The path pops out of the singletrack onto a rutted grime highway a couple of half mile earlier than the Michigan Bluff help station (mile 55.7) and you’ll return to operating right here. The run into Michigan Bluff is triumphant! You’re by way of two canyons, you may see your crew, and it seems like you’re again in civilization. There’s a nice medical workforce right here, so when you’ve got any points, cope with them now. Additionally, be sure you high off on energy and fluids as you have got yet one more canyon to go.
Volcano Canyon has three distinct sections: the grime highway out of city, the singletrack by way of the canyon, and the paved Tub Highway climb. Take every of those sections as their very own entities and also you’ll be superb. Towards the underside of the canyon, as soon as once more, the path steepens. There may be additionally a number of publicity to the solar on this space on account of the Mosquito Hearth.
On the creek crossing, be sure you douse your self and funky off a bit earlier than the climb to Foresthill. The paved climb up Tub Highway is an effective mixture of strolling and operating earlier than hitting Foresthill Highway and the gradual downhill into the Foresthill help station (mile 62).
Foresthill to the Rucky Chucky River Crossing
After the joyous run by way of Foresthill, the place you may see your crew, re-fuel, and decide up a pacer, you’ll start the descent into the American River Canyon, on the notorious California Road. This 16-mile part of the race is without doubt one of the most vital and deceiving sections of the course. Certainly, it’s all downhill, aside from the uphill elements, and these climbs alongside the best way make this the crux of the race.
Leaving Foresthill, descend precipitously to the Cal 1 help station (mile 65.7), aka Dardanelles. This 2.9-mile stretch has only a few flat elements and just one brief climb. Once you cross Dardanelles Creek, you have got between 9 and 10 minutes to the help station. Leaving Cal 1, you have got a 3rd of a mile of flat earlier than starting a brief however steep and uncovered climb. This can be a good place to take a gel and powerhike.
Cresting this hill, it’s about 1.7 miles of comparatively flat terrain earlier than starting the “rollers,” a collection of 15 brief climbs that can kick you within the tooth when you’re not prepared for them. In case you’re not too brain-dead, you may rely these rollers, and if you get to the “pink curler,” so named as a result of the soil is pink, you have got just one extra earlier than you hit the “elevator shaft.” This can be a 0.3-mile steep descent on the rugged path that may drain the quads out of nearly anybody. In 2005, I handed Vincent Delebarre right here as he was strolling backward!
When you backside out of the shaft, you have got lower than 5 minutes of good runnable terrain to the Cal 2 help station (mile 70.7), also referred to as Peachstone. Take a minute at Cal 2 to re-fuel and get located earlier than starting one other switchbacking descent on easy singletrack. This descent abruptly ends about 1.5 miles out of the help station at “six-minute hill,” a grinding climb on a hearth highway that may be robust when you’re not prepared. After cresting the hill, you have got a five-minute downhill to the Cal 3 help station (mile 73), additionally known as Ford’s Bar.
Leaving Cal 3, it’s 5 miles to the Rucky Chucky crossing of the American River. Don’t be misled by the sound of the river to your left. You continue to have a methods to go and several other brief however steep ascents on the best way to the crossing. The singletrack path offers approach to a hearth highway about 1.5 miles earlier than the river crossing, and you’ve got one final grinding climb after going round a gate earlier than descending to the Rucky Chucky help station (mile 78).
Right here, re-fuel, hobble down, and cross the river. You might have to take a ship or cross utilizing a hand line, relying on the river’s degree. As soon as on the opposite aspect, dunk within the restorative waters of the American River and start the two-mile climb as much as the Inexperienced Gate help station (mile 79.8).
The River to the End
One of many oft-spoken truisms in regards to the Western States 100 course is that the final 20 miles include probably the most runnable terrain. And, probably the most oft-spoken recommendation is to save lots of your legs so that you could really run a few of this runnable terrain. Subsequently, when you’ve executed a good job of preserving your legs and a few vitality, this can be a excellent spot to run.
After the two-mile powerhike up from the river to the Inexperienced Gate help station, start a five-mile part to the Auburn Lakes Trails help station (mile 85.2). This is a superb path with a number of bumps alongside the best way and two comparatively sustained climbs. You’ll have two brief, grinding climbs out of creeks en path to the help station.
When you go a small memorial in your left, created for a lady who was attacked and killed by a mountain lion right here again in 1994 whereas out on a coaching run, you have got about one mile to go to the Auburn Lakes Trails help station. This massive help station has medical help, drop luggage, and sizzling meals. In case you’re feeling somewhat down right here, this isn’t a foul place to spend a couple of minutes regrouping with soup, maybe some stable meals, and fluids. The crew right here is skilled and really pleasant, and it helps to be in temper earlier than leaving on the five-mile part to Quarry Highway.
The path to Quarry Highway is, fairly actually, all runnable. In case you have been out right here on a 20-mile coaching run, you’d simply run the entire thing. However, alas, you aren’t. Subsequently, on this part, it is very important keep centered and run as a lot of the path as you may. Whereas the little rollers might appear to be mountains after 85 miles, you may and may run them.
Rolling into Quarry Highway help station (mile 90.7), which is staffed by the great of us from Rogue Valley Runners, together with two-time Western States 100 champ Hal Koerner, you need to really feel drained however happy.
You permit Quarry Highway on a easy fireplace highway that parallels the American River for about 1.5 miles earlier than leaping again onto singletrack for the 1.5-mile climb to the Freeway 49 crossing at mile 93.5. This flip grew to become notorious in latest race lore when, in 2016, Jim Walmsley missed the flip onto singletrack whereas main the race at under-course-record tempo.
At Freeway 49, you’ll actually start smelling the barn. There’s a small workforce of volunteers right here on the highway crossing to cheer you on for the final 0.8-mile climb to the Pointed Rocks help station (mile 94.3) situated within the Cool Meadow, one in every of my favourite elements of the course.
Leaving Pointed Rocks, start a gradual 2.7-mile descent to the enduring No Arms Bridge (mile 96.5). Once you get to some extent the place you may see and listen to the visitors going to and from Cool Meadow on Freeway 49, you have got a couple of mile left to the bridge. When the path opens into a big meadow wanting down on the American River’s confluence, it’s about 5 minutes to the bridge. Keep centered and run these downhills as assertively as you may.
After crossing No Arms Bridge, start what’s at first a gradual climb as much as Robie Level. After a mile or so of light climbing, the grade steepens and crosses two creeks. When the singletrack pops out onto a hearth highway, you have got lower than 1 / 4 mile to the highest.
You’ll hear and see the oldsters up on the Robie Level help station (mile 98.9), and if you go across the gate and onto the paved roads on the outskirts of Auburn, California, you have got 1.3 miles left to the end. The primary third of a mile is a grinding climb up the highway that crests at a home that normally has a celebration occurring with an indication saying “Mile 99.”
From right here, wind downhill on metropolis streets earlier than crossing the white bridge and making a left downhill to Placer Excessive Faculty. You’ll see the sunshine towers from the observe, so that you’ll know you’re shut. Enter the observe and luxuriate in probably the most wonderful 250-meter jog you’ve ever had.
Bottoms up!
AJW’s Beer of the Week
This week’s Beer of the Week comes from The Good Wolf in Truckee, California. Recognized for his or her “Forest Beers,” that are produced with substances sourced from the native forests, Good Wolf’s The Tree That Splits the Wind is a scrumptious spruce brown ale that tastes prefer it got here proper out of a pine forest. Creamy and easy, The Tree that Splits the Wind is a singular and refreshing deal with.
Name for Feedback
- Is there any a part of the Western States 100 course that AJW has ignored?
- What’s your favourite a part of the course?