As I climb slowly away from bed my ideas instantly flip to my footwear. Are they dry? The earlier night, the very first thing I did after checking-in to our resort in Langholm, drained, moist and soiled was get within the bathe and totally wash my as soon as pristine white footwear. Coated in grime and soaked by, I obtained them glowing clear earlier than I turned the cleaning soap on myself. I’d smuggled some thick paper hand towels out of a restaurant earlier within the day realizing I’d must stuff them in my footwear in a single day. I can’t begin a journey with moist biking footwear. I simply cannot. So in that cafe, even earlier than I used to be midway by day one, my ideas had leapt ahead to the beginning of day two.
The towels and heated towel rail had labored their magic. My footwear have been clear and dry, and with contemporary equipment laid out, I immediately felt extra constructive in regards to the 100 or so miles that lay forward. A fast breakfast and we have been quickly getting the bike out of the again of the automotive. It was raining. Onerous. In truth it had been raining many of the evening, and water was streaming throughout the roads.
Two minutes later, on a fast circle of the city to navigate the one-way system, I’ve picked up the route on my Wahoo biking laptop. I discover myself using previous the entrance of our heat, dry resort. Mile zero and my footwear and socks are drenched. Fully soaked by. Ah properly, it was good whereas it lasted. Let’s get going.
I’m in southern Scotland using the brand new Kirkpatrick coast to coast route that formally opens this yr. Named after Scottish Blacksmith Kirkpatrick Macmillan who’s credited with inventing the primary treadle bicycle, it’s a two-hundred and fifty six mile route from Stranraer within the west to Eyemouth on the east coast, alongside cycle routes, paths, quiet roads and thru some gorgeous surroundings. It’s part of the nation steeped in a bloody historical past of battles between the English and the Scots, suffering from castles and abbeys, and residential to rugged shoreline and rolling inexperienced hills. And regardless of the rain we’re encountering, it’s one thing of a haven for biking.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day one, using by farmland in Southern Scotland
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
“Are you going for the file?” a canine walker calls over as I pose for a photograph on the seaside at Stranraer. It’s overcast and feels just like the heavy gray clouds are about to burst at any second. “Not immediately,” I reply with false modesty. “Have you ever ridden it?”
“Components of it,” he replies earlier than happening to say his normal using vacation spot is in Dumfries and Galloway.
There’s not a motorcycle rider to be seen; the route hasn’t been formally opened and there’s definitely no begin banner or native dignitaries waving me off, so the actual fact this canine walker is aware of what I’m about to tackle suggests the route is already pretty properly trodden. Eager to get transferring I clip clop up the concrete steps from the seaside and set off. I journey down a residential avenue and straight onto the A75 important highway, or a minimum of on the shared cycle path subsequent to it. Quickly I flip proper and into little lanes, turning left and proper by farmland and previous little lakes – or are they floodwaters? – with out a city in sight.
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At each flip there’s an indication. In truth, not simply on the flip, however earlier than and after each. From Stranraer all the way in which to Dumfries, 102 miles of using to the east, they don’t miss a beat. Seamlessly navigating you alongside roads, paths, by woods and round or beneath busy junctions. That is due to Sustrans whose routes 73 and seven mix to take you first from Stranraer to Newton Stewart after which on to Dumfries.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day two, approaching the lengthy climb out of Newcastleton
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
Most of those are small blue rectangles with a quantity in a crimson sq. and are simple to identify as soon as you already know what you’re searching for – and so quite a few I might simply flip my Wahoo’s navigation off. There are plans for particular Kirkpatrick indicators to be added this yr, which can assist over the second half of this route. From Dumfries on, I did want my head unit’s turn-by-turn navigation as indicators have been missing in most locations and a few in-situ indicators for different routes have been pointing in a unique course.
Hitting the coast
Earlier than too lengthy I’m out on an uncovered coastal highway. The westerly wind is relentless, whipping in off the Irish Sea over my proper shoulder. Fortunately it’s not a direct cross wind, however barely behind, so serving to my progress. Twenty miles into the journey and I flip left up the primary correct climb, taking me away from the coast. That is the place I’m hit by the total pressure of the wind, and far to my delight it’s straight behind me.
The subsequent 12 miles roll by in minutes as I cruise alongside at 50kph with little effort. Not solely is the highway flat and straight, however facet roads are few and much between and visitors is non-existent. It’s not usually that travelling at that pace on a motorcycle is that this simple, enjoyable and secure. In truth, I’m undecided I’ve ever been so relaxed using at that pace.
Kirkpatrick C2C route
A fast espresso cease in Wigtown the place I fail in my try and dry out and we’re quickly onto the largest climb of the time out of Creetown. Once more, with the wind behind, the 5 miles of mild ascent is nearly imperceptible. On the summit I can benefit from the views of the Large Water of Fleet Viaduct that cuts by the Cairnsmore of Fleet Nature Reserve.
The descent right down to Gatehouse of Fleet is simply as pleasing because the views on the high, with sweeping bends, lengthy straights and typically line of sight. On the backside lies the Ship Inn, and because it’s lunchtime I resolve it’s time to refuel.
The afternoon’s using takes us alongside the picturesque highway into Kirkcudbright, then inland to Fort Douglas and onto our vacation spot of Dumfries. It’s these roads that typify the day’s using: small, rolling nation lanes, reducing by miles and miles of farmland and little else – no espresso stops this afternoon, sadly. I even get stopped by a farmer transferring his cows from one discipline to a different with the assistance of two quad-bike-riding herders.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day one, climb out of Creetown @Andy Jones
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
I take the enforced break as an opportunity to get the low-down on the breed we’re watching cross the highway and what they’re good for. The farmer was clearly not impressed by my lack of bovine information. Fortunately photographer Andy Jones is aware of his Hereford from this Belted Galloway.
The cycle lane takes me into the centre of Dumfries with out a highway in sight, and by now it’s getting darkish. With over 80 miles in my legs, happy that I’ve achieved sufficient using, I name it a day. We might have stayed right here for the evening, there are many choices, however our hosts have booked us right into a resort in Langholm, round 30 miles additional alongside the route. I placed on a dry high, soar within the automotive and we head off to search out it.
It is all in regards to the bike
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
I rode a Pearson On and On gravel bike with X1 Shimano GRX 40 X 11-40 and Schwalbe G One 40mm file tread tyres. Chosen for its baggage carrying capability I did in reality go away many of the baggage within the photographers automotive. We had a variety of floor to cowl, and carrying luggage on the entrance would gradual me down, even with that tailwind.
With or with out baggage it was a motorcycle ideally fitted to the journey. There have been climbs and sections of highway the place a extra slimline stretched out highway bike would have been quicker and allowed me to cowl a bit extra floor, however then it could have struggled on a number of quick sections. This isn’t a route setup for quick using so the consolation and flexibility of a gravel bike was good. Much more so if carrying baggage.
The South of Scotland Vacation spot Alliance that has overseen the creation of this route have introduced us right here, and achieved a high fee job of organising our lodging. (Even delaying our keep when a bout of Covid prevented our authentic go to in September.) It’s now their job to market it – therefore our invite – and is a part of a raft of funding coming biking’s manner in Scotland.
The Scottish authorities has dedicated to spending £320 million of the transport funds on lively journey by 2024/25 and in addition to enhancing infrastructure is placing cash straight into Native and Nationwide Park Authorities in addition to different our bodies. Internet hosting the 2023 World Championships was all a part of the plan.
Smaller initiatives have popped up too. A part of South Ayrshire – dwelling to the previous Premier Calendar race The Girvan – has been designated a highway cycle park whereas some cities have added streetside bike stations. I did a double take as I handed a everlasting observe pump constructed into the pavement in Newcastleton. A small factor, maybe, however it’s little touches like this that genuinely make locations really feel biking pleasant.
I’ve to confess to a tinge of guilt when climbing into the photographer’s automotive. I had initially deliberate to journey the entire route, however in a short time realise that even with an early begin, and a tail wind, 256 miles in two days in late October is rarely going to occur, particularly with common pictures stops. The intention as a substitute shifts to using as a lot of the route as doable as a way to get a flavour of the realm.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey, day two. Climb between Newcastleton and Hawick
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
The fantastic thing about the route is you could create your individual itinerary and take so long as you want to finish it. There are a number of itineraries on the southern Scotland web site (see boxout) from two to eight days, the longer one together with off route excursions to soak up extra of the historical past, websites and tastes (primarily whisky) of close by cities. When planning an itinerary, keep in mind the surfaces you’ll be taking. Using a twisty cycle path by woods and over slim bridges will not be quick going, and even doing simply 80 miles in a day means I’ve to push on the place I can – partly simply to remain heat.
The rain that soaked me at the beginning of day two continues all the way in which to our morning cease in Hawick. The attractive countryside between the 2 factors is essentially obscured by cloud. At one level I’m so moist and chilly I’ve to vary into dry equipment in conjunction with the highway. It will be pretty unenjoyable have been it not for the ten miles of mild climbing out of Newcastleton that go straight into my high 20 favorite stretches of highway. In summer season I’d be tempted to show round and journey it once more.
After my second scorching drink and slice of cake in Hawick I’ve to decide. The climate is foul and I nonetheless have 70 miles to get to the coast. Driving to Galashiels and resume using there will get the nod. I really feel one other tinge of guilt, nonetheless, upon assembly two riders heading the opposite manner. We cease for a chat as they mend a puncture and lend them a observe pump.
They have been using to Stranraer – into that wind – to catch a ferry to Eire in 4 days’ time. It’s late within the afternoon by now. “The place have you ever obtained to get to tonight?” I ask, impressed by the quantity of equipment they have been carrying and barely anxious they’d miss their ferry if this wind saved up. “We’ll simply cease wherever,” one in all them replies. “We’re sleeping in bivvy luggage.” I resolve to not inform them about my three-star resort and efforts to dry my footwear out in a single day, want them luck and keep on.
Kirkpatrick C2C journey day 2, Union Bridge over the River Tweed
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
The final 50 miles into Eymouth is rolling however total downhill, together with a brief diversion into England and over the fairly gorgeous Union Bridge that spans the river Tweed. As I journey the ultimate miles, I discover myself questioning a) if I might have ridden the entire route in two days and b) whether or not or not anybody might journey the route in a day.
Unbeknown to me on the time, the FKT (quickest identified time) already exists – Josh Wooden accomplished it in 23 hours and eight minutes. That point is way from unbeatable, however it’s spectacular contemplating the terrain and biking infrastructure that must be navigated. And whereas I gained’t be returning to attempt to set a brand new FKT, the concept of doing this journey with mates over a number of days in higher climate may be very interesting certainly. However there’s no manner I’m sleeping in a bivvy bag.
Journey logistics
(Picture credit score: Andy Jones)
get there
Stranrear will not be the simplest place to get to with out a automotive. We obtained the Glasgow service from London Euston, getting off at Carlisle. From there we drove to Stranrear which remains to be two-and-a-quarter hours away. There are native prepare companies operating from Glasgow, however it’s a lengthy journey. It’s simpler from Northern Eire with common ferry companies from Belfast. Eyemouth is 9 miles north of Berwick upon Tweed which is on the Edinburgh – London Kings Cross prepare route, and simply off the A1.
Using the route
The South of Scotland web site has a number of advisable itineraries for these eager to sort out it in several time frames, together with suggestions for locations to remain and factors of curiosity alongside the way in which, and gpx information of the route. scotlandstartshere.com/kirkpatrickc2c/
The place to remain
One our first evening we stayed on the three star North West Fort Resort overlooking the bay at Stranraer. Spacious and quiet, it’s additionally the one resort the place we’ve eaten overlooking a curling rink. Sadly the espresso at breakfast left alot to be desired.
Our midway level was the three star Eskdale Resort in Langholm. A small metropolis centre resort, it was cosy and cozy with restaurant. However nonetheless no espresso machine at breakfast.
After reaching Eyemouth we opted to drive right down to Berwick-Upon-Tweed forward of the prepare journey dwelling early the subsequent morning. We stayed at The King’s Arms Resort within the city centre which had an excellent restaurant and, finally, good espresso
The place to eat
Because of timings, and being out of season we ate at our accommodations. On route we stopped at two nice little cafes for genuinely glorious mid journey coffees and cake. Cafe Rendevous in Wigtown 30 miles in to day one had an ideal number of meals whereas Cafe Damascus Drum in Hawick, 56 miles into day’s two journey was equally nearly as good. There are lots of different locations to cease and eat, however when you’re using the route out of season, I might advocate checking your deliberate stops and instances you’ll be reaching them, as some won’t be open once you arrive.
