“Why are you alone?” Requested the Turkish policeman as he pulled me over to the aspect of the street. We have been 1500m up within the distant Anatolian mountains and this was not precisely what I had anticipated to greet me on the prime of the steep climb, however I dutifully parked my bike and did my finest to elucidate myself.
“I’m biking to England,” I replied to the puzzled officer.
A girl biking alone attracts numerous consideration wherever, and this police officer (who, for the file, let me go after an hour) was not the primary, or the final, to investigate as to what I used to be doing with out a companion, in December, heading north into the wind.
It was day one in every of my solo biking tour (/bikepacking journey, to make use of the extra trendy time period) and to be trustworthy, I used to be already asking myself the identical query. Why had I give up my job, bought all my belongings and determined to pedal from south-eastern Turkey to England? My legs have been already exhausted and I used to be solely 90km down, maybe I had made an terrible mistake.
(Picture credit score: Isobel Duxfield)
The concept began a few 12 months in the past. I used to be dwelling in Brussels, with a job I cherished, surrounded by nice colleagues and buddies; nonetheless, I used to be rising stressed. I used to be itching for one thing completely different, a brand new journey. After some deliberation, I settled on a cycle tour.
Whereas I’ve labored in biking coverage for a number of years, I’m no seasoned cycle tourer. Nevertheless, after watching a number of YouTube movies I used to be bought, how exhausting might it’s? I purchased a motorcycle, booked a flight, handed in my discover, bought my belongings and headed off.
Okay, in order that’s the abridged model, however you get the image.
Two months into the journey, having confronted every thing from snow to scorching solar, rock falls to floods, damaged chains to bent handlebars, alongside a number of cuts and bruises, it’s proving to be the journey of a lifetime. Each day has been a studying curve.
Transportation and the worry of canine
The very first thing I discovered is that transporting a two-wheeler by aeroplane is not any imply feat, whenever you don’t wish to be left with an costly and heavy bike field/bag to cope with. The method requires totally deconstructing the bike, wrapping it in as a lot protecting padding as doable, inserting it in an simply recyclable cardboard field, and hoping that it comes out the opposite aspect in a single piece. On arrival, you might be confronted with the powerful activity of placing all of it again collectively, and figuring out the (inevitable) breakages which have occurred in the course of the flight; baggage handlers aren’t famend for his or her care and consideration.
This time I used to be fortunate, and the one main difficulty was a bent entrance wheel, and I managed to teeter precariously down the busy freeway into Antalya to discover a sort mechanic who might true the wheel.
(Picture credit score: Isobel Duxfield)
When flying with a bicycle, in a flimsy cardboard field, harm is inescapable. My largest piece of recommendation to anyone – like me, with little mechanical understand how – trying that is to time your arrival throughout working hours to make sure fast entry to a motorcycle store.
Preventing off canine has develop into a continuing, terrifying and draining each day incidence. In Turkey, and plenty of elements of Greece, I discovered myself chased by canine companions extra instances than I can rely. Generally, in case you are fortunate, you’ll be able to see them lumbering down the street in the direction of you, others bounce out from nowhere, and in case you are notably unlucky, big packs encompass you, barking and bearing their sharp tooth.
Fashionable recommendation was to wave a stick or throw stones, nevertheless it quickly turned evident that this may not deter my assailants. As a substitute, the secret is to cease, alight from the bike, and shout loudly till the canine lose curiosity and saunter off to discover a new sufferer. This has usually meant progress is extremely sluggish, notably in distant mountainous areas. Nonetheless, for probably the most half their bark is worse than their chunk; there was just one event the place a small, however loud, hound latched its mouth onto my foot, earlier than I shortly kicked it off. I put it right down to little-man-syndrome.
“The place is your husband?”
I’m regularly requested if, as a solo feminine tourer, I encounter threatening or intimidating behaviour. Truthfully, I’ve solely ever been handled solely with consideration and respect. In actual fact I’ve skilled worse remedy biking in London and Brussels the place I’ve been heckled, spat at, and even had my bum slapped by males who regard feminine cyclists as meat on two wheels.
The one exception can be the questions as to the whereabouts of my husband and if my father has sanctioned this journey. When coping with these feedback, I’ve normally smiled and laughed, desperate to keep away from or dissipate any animosity. Reflecting again, perhaps I ought to have taken a stand and demanded why it was assumed I would want male help, however in all honesty, alone, in a international place, I didn’t have the braveness – maybe that is one thing I’ll collect by the top of my journey.
Classes in human kindness
Hande Karaca, founding father of Chain Breaking Girls
(Picture credit score: Isobel Duxfield)
My largest lesson from the journey, up to now, is the unimaginable kindness and hospitality whole strangers afford to cycle tourers. I’ve handed by way of numerous unimaginable landscapes, taken on many powerful climbs and swam at lovely seashores, however it’s the individuals I’ve met alongside the best way which have had the largest and most lasting influence.
I’ve regularly used hospitality functions together with Couchsurfing and Warmshowers [see breakout below] to discover a mattress for the evening, and have been humbled by the generosity I’ve acquired.
There have additionally been many great individuals who have supported me by way of the a number of mechanical difficulties I’ve encountered: the lorry driver who picked me up along with the freeway when my gear cable snapped, the bike mechanic who opened on a Sunday night to repair my damaged chain – after which he invited me to dinner along with his household.
Alongside the best way I’ve met so many pioneering people and organisations who’re spearheading a biking revolution of their cities, cities and villages. Spending time with teams such because the Izmir Bicycle Affiliation, Istanbul’s Zincir Kieran Kadinlar (actually translated as Chain Breaking Girls), and LuleBurgaz’s Bicycle Academy, it has been extremely inspiring to see, first hand, this push for higher, safer and extra accessible biking, usually in probably the most unassuming locations.
Having traversed the Turkish shoreline (beautiful), crossed Istanbul’s highways (the closest I’ve come to demise’s door), and climbed the aspect of Olympus (steep), I’m now pedalling across the Peloponnese. The climate is warming up, the gloves are off, the shorts are again on, horrendous tan strains are returning, and I’m having the time of my life. I might suggest cycle touring to everybody, don’t let anyone let you know solo journeys aren’t for girls.
Staying protected whereas touring alone
Over the previous couple of years, a variety of functions and boards have been established to help cycle tourers – and different travellers – to seek out low cost and free lodging, with Couchsurfing and Warmshowers maybe probably the most notorious websites in the present day. Whereas Couchsurfing is open to all, Warmshowers is reserved for these travelling by bicycle, and has grown during the last decade to now boast over 100,000 customers worldwide.
The important thing ingredient is that no cash is exchanged between host and visitor, whereas platform customers pay a small subscription charge, at level of contact, hospitality is free. Hosts don’t simply present shelter, they’re additionally a supply of help and camaraderie for cyclists; after a day of sitting alone on the saddle, you crave a pleasant face and attention-grabbing dialog, which a dingy motel or cramped tent can’t satiate.
Admittedly, as a girl biking alone, the method of discovering a protected place to remain by way of an app doesn’t come with out trepidation. As a proud feminist, who usually rebuffs issues from others about my private security, it’s virtually painful to confess my anxieties round discovering trusted lodging.
Fortunately, the assessment course of carried out on CouchSurfing and Warmshowers offers readability on which hosts are more likely to be reliable and people who ought to be averted. My largest piece of recommendation to any solo lady bicycle owner right here is to learn the opinions written by earlier feminine friends – not simply the boys – as usually, the variations between the 2 are revealing. Additionally it is essential to mirror on the vulnerability of hosts; it requires accepting a complete stranger into one’s residence, trusting that they are going to deal with it with respect.
My equipment listing
(Picture credit score: Isobel Duxfield)
I’m not a gear junkie. In actual fact, I’m sporting a pair of my mom’s hand-me-down biking shorts, that are most likely over 20 years previous, utilizing panniers I bought once I was 16, and I’ve by no means even touched a Garmin. Nevertheless, for this journey, I’ve invested in a number of items of apparatus and applied sciences which have proved to be indispensable for a winter tour:
- A very good sleeping bag- I’m utilizing the RAB Neutrino which works right down to -7oC, which has been important for the bitter winter nights.
- A sturdy tent- I’m utilizing the MSR Hubba Hubba two man, which permits me to retailer my belongings inside, thus conserving them protected and dry.
- Strong panniers- I’m utilizing a set of rear and entrance panniers from Ortlieb. They’re now 10 years previous and stay (virtually) as waterproof because the day I bought them.
- Easy handlebar bag- I opted for an Ortlieb Final handlebar bag, it’s nice for simply accessing your cellphone, pockets and different necessities like Baklava.
- Small multitool- these may be introduced very cheaply from a good out of doors store and are indispensable for tightening and fixing parts alongside the best way.
- Reliable waterproofs- having worn the identical disintegrated waterproof jacket for a decade, I invested in a brand new Patagonia Torentshell. I additionally bought a pair of Vaude overshoes- that are additionally essential for the chilly, and waterproof gloves.
- A very good pair of thermals- I take advantage of these on a regular basis when the solar units and the chilly evening attracts in.
- Sizzling water bottle- sounds ridiculous, however it’s in actual fact very gentle and has saved my extremities heat at evening.
- Good sunglasses- I put on a pair of youngsters’s glasses, as my head is minute. They’re low cost, they stand up to the wind, and they’re pink with polka dots
Suggestions for navigation, banking and basic help
- Discover your ‘bikepacking/touring’ WhatsApp group – There are numerous WhatsApp teams for cyclists to help each other and share important recommendation, ask round amongst different cycle tourers and anyone is sure to have the ability to join you with one.
- Check out Maps.me – This can be a free app, which permits for offline navigation, nice for saving battery and information. Nevertheless, it’s susceptible to routing riders on pointless detours to keep away from giant roads, which in actuality are completely passable for cyclists. Ensure you try the recommended route fairly than blindly following the instructions.
- Open a Monzo, Starling or Revolut – I’ve opened an account with all three, which permits me quick access to financial savings and free withdrawals, in addition to the flexibility to retailer cash in Euros, which has considerably lowered each day transaction prices.
